What Lies Ahead for the Future of Fashion

For several years, the fashion model the majority of us have become most accustomed with is the fast fashion movement. Think of Zara with their lead time of just days from design to shop-floor, or Primark with their pile high and sell cheap strategy. The fact is, as consumers we’ve been conditioned to want more and to want it for less. However, cracks are appearing in this archetype as consumers come to reject fast fashion on both moral and environmental grounds, not to mention the renewed strive for a quality level not widely associated with the fast movement.  It’s a small turning of the tide, but it’s rapidly gaining momentum and has many in the fashion industry questioning just exactly what lies ahead for the future of fashion. Here we break down the three biggest factors influencing today’s most common fashion model as we know it.

The end of over consumption

“Does this spark joy?” Marie Koni

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picture by: Igor Ovsyannykov

The fast fashion movement pivots on keeping prices low, so that they encourage consumers to buy more than they actually need. This model of overconsumption leads to a process of mass production which puts pressure on the environment and all the people in the supply chain (including factory workers). However, lately there has been a change in consumer mentality – you only need to examine the soaring popularity of Kon Mari to understand that consumers are converting to owning less and owning for longer. And with a desire to own things longer is a renewed focus on quality, which can only be achieved by slowing right down.

The slow fashion movement

“Fashion that fosters ecological integrity and social quality through products, practices of use and relationships.” Kate Fletcher

‘Slow fashion’ was first coined by Kate Fletcher in 2007. It is a term used to describe seasonal product that is born from a consciousness supply chain. By consciousness, think mindful – aware of the environment and the supply chain in which it relies on. And with this mindfulness comes a slowdown, an awareness that we really don’t need to buy into trends every six weeks which forces to assess what is really important to us.

The slow fashion movement focuses on buying less, buying preloved and buying into brands that source ethically, manufacture with conscience and, even better, work to give back to the great community.

Consumer facing model

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picture by: Kris Atomic

“In a world that has become increasingly immediate, the current way of showing a collection four months before it is available to customers, is an antiquated idea and one that no longer makes sense.” – Tom Ford

Coupled with the slow fashion movement, is a new consumer facing model which works to stop the relentless marketing of fashion months before it is even available. The biggest advocate of it is Tom Ford, who famously pulled out of New York Fashion Week last year. He cited his reasons as being fed up of plugging product to customers that wasn’t available to buy. Instead the fashion house has shifted to real-time model which works to market product that was available in the shops immediately. This instantly makes the product less aspirational, but more accessible and takes the roots back to a consumer-facing model – where you buy what you like, rather than have product marketed to you as a ‘need’ for months before launch.

Three serious threats to the fashion model as we know it, but maybe it’s time for an approach that’s altogether more fair for everyone involved?

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Bamboo

Bamboo itself can be a highly sustainable crop, if grown under the right conditions.

There are a wide variety of textiles derived from the bamboo plant that are called bamboo fabric which has been used for thousands of years ( for infrastructure, medicinal use and for paper).

Bamboo fabric possesses antibacterial as well as UV protection properties.

In order to produce bamboo fabric of the highest quality, cellulose is not extracted during production. The bamboo fibers are instead coated with a natural enzyme before being washed and spun into yarn.

Often called bamboo linen, this fabric has a silky texture and is made from silky yarn.

This method makes bamboo fabric that is strong, durable, and environmentally friendly.

  • One can wash bamboo fabric by hand or in a washing machine, but it is absolutely important to use only cold water, never warm or hot water during this process (maximum recommended temperature: 60°C).
  • Wash bamboo clothes after turning them inside out, for best results.
  • Use a minimal amount of soap, and wash gently along with other clothes of similar colors, in short cycles.
  • It is important to rinse the clothes well to get rid of all the soap.
  • Never use softener or bleach on these clothes as they significantly reduce its life.
  • The cloth should never be dried in direct, strong sunlight, as this can cause permanent damage.
  • Bamboo fabric should never be dried in a machine dryer, as this causes it to shrink and lose shape rapidly.
  • Dry cleaning bamboo fabrics should be avoided as far as possible.

Modal

Modal is manufactured from cellulose using chemical processing, just as are bamboo, rayon (viscose) and lyocell. In the case of modal, the cellulose comes from softwood trees.  The manufacturing process is closed loop, which means that the chemicals used in processing are captured and reused. The small amount of discharged is considered non-hazardous. The finished textile is biodegradable and also takes well to natural dyes, eliminating the need for more harmful chemical dyes. Although in most cases modal is still dyed with conventional chemical dyes.

  • Beech trees are harvested, chipped, and cellulose is extracted from the pulp.
  • Next, the cellulose is made into sheets, which are soaked in sodium hydroxide.
  • Those sheets are broken into smaller pieces, which are soaked in carbon disulfate. This produces sodium cellulose xanthate.
  • Cellulose xanthate is soaked in sodium hydroxide again. The subsequent liquid solution is put through a spinneret, which is a device with a series of holes that help create fibers.
  • The created fibers are soaked in sulfuric acid to form yarn. Once washed, bleached, and dried, the yarn is loaded onto spools.
  • From there, the yarn can be woven or knit into a fabric to form modal.
Good news Modal can be washed in the washing machine with warm water. But if you know me, you know I prefer cold, it uses way less energy. It can also be machine dried (use the gentle cycle), but I highly recommend air drying your clothes. I’ve got a whole guide on how to do it right. Never use bleach on delicates fabrics, it breaks down the fibres and I always recommend using more natural, eco-friendly detergents for all your clothing. You can think of the care in the same way you would good linen. If you have lingerie or undies made from Modal, hand wash or use a mesh washing bag.

Organic Linen

Organic linen comes from a flax plant that is farmed without any use of toxic chemicals at the farming or processing stage.
The flax plant usually grows naturally in Western Europe, in temperate climates.

  • We recommend always using a low temperature or cold wash.
  • Use gentle detergents that are environmentally safe, and use a washable garment bag for particularly delicate items. Do not use fabric conditioner.
  • For stains, pre-soak and do not use an iron until the stain is completely gone.
  • Wash inside out and with like colors.
  • Do NOT wash with garments that have Velcro or zippers to avoid abrasion marks.
  • Always air dry when you can.
  • If you must iron, use a medium temperature iron and test on an inconspicuous piece first.
Organic linen is made from flax, a natural raw material. Flax is a recyclable fiber that does not need irrigation. It also requires almost no chemical treatment. All parts of the flax plant are used, ensuring no waste.

Milk

The milk fiber has been widely used in sweaters, underwear, garments, home textiles and other
fields, milk fiber products are quite welcome to consumers for the excellent properties of milk fiber super soft,anti-allergy, Eco-friendly, healthy and comfortable.

The most specific characteristics of milk protein fiber are skin-nourishing and bacteria-fighting.

Milk fiber is made from milk casein instead of fresh milk. It is new generation of innovative Fiber & a kind of synthetic Fiber created through bio-engineering method with biological health benefits which has passed international ecological certification of OEKO-tex standard 100.

Since they contain acrylic, however, semi-synthetic forms of this fabric can only be washed in cold or warm water.

Organic Hemp

Hemp fabric gives all the softness of other natural textiles, but with a strength that is an amazing 3 times higher than cotton.
This unique durability makes it uniquely hard-wearing and long-lasting.

  • We recommend always using a low temperature or cold wash.
  • Use gentle detergents that are environmentally safe, and use a washable garment bag for particularly delicate items. Do not use fabric conditioner.
  • For stains, pre-soak and do not use an iron until the stain is completely gone.
  • Wash inside out and with like colors.
  • Do NOT wash with garments that have Velcro or zippers to avoid abrasion marks.
  • Always air dry when you can.
  • If you must iron, use a medium temperature iron and test on an inconspicuous piece first

Hemp fabric is a long-lasting and durable fabric which is made from the long strands of fiber that make up the stalk of the plant.
These fibers are separated from the bark through a process called “retting.”
The retted fibers are then spun together to produce a continuous thread (or yarn) that can be woven into a fabric.

Recycled Polyster

Recycled Polyester, much like traditional polyester, is a man-made fabric.
However, recycled polyester is made from recycled plastic such as plastic bottles.

  • We recommend always using a low temperature or cold wash.
  • Use gentle detergents that are environmentally safe, and use a washable garment bag for particularly delicate items.
  • Wash inside out and with like colors.
  • Always air dry when you can.
  • Should not have to be ironed, but if you do, use a medium temperature iron and test on an inconspicuous piece first.

Recycled polyester is made by breaking down used plastic into small, thin chips. These thin pieces and chips are then melted down further and spun into yarn, which is then made into fabric.